Pool talk


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Posted:  #23287
Anonymous User
Subject: pool painting

I have a 10 - 11 year old gunite pool and live in NE Texas. I think it's time to paint ( wife wants new color). What is the best type of paint and is there a better time of year to do this? Also, should I be worried about the pool floating, and if so, how do I keep this from happening?

Posted:  11/7/2008 4:42 PM #23288
Total Posts:556
Last Post:3/20/2009
Member Since:10/24/2006
I would suggest a good epoxy. Its a bit pricey but will last a long time. Its quite a job, tons of prep work, and the pool has to be very dry. Its best to leave it empty for about a week and then test for dampness in the plaster. After painting you have to leave it empty for another week to ensure proper curing. So all in all, its a very time consuming process. But its crucial not to skip any prep work. If you do a search here on this site, there is lots of good info on pool painting, that will walk you through the whole process.

Also a good time to get started is a non-rainy time of the year. If it does rain in the middle of the job, its not the end of the world. It just extends your drying time or cure time out a bit longer.

Posted:  11/10/2008 11:18 AM #23289
Total Posts:171
Last Post:11/19/2009
Member Since:6/11/2006
How to Paint Your Swimming Pool

As mentioned earlier, the most important part of a paint job is the preparation. There are no shortcuts! The following is a step by step guide to a successful paint job using epoxy paint. Acrylic pool paints can be used on a damp surface, and don't require as long of a dry time before painting. Consult the label of the paint for application directions.

Determine the type of pool paint that is on the pool. You cannot paint a pool that has epoxy paint with rubber base paint or visa versa. You can use acrylic paint on any surface.

Drain any water from the swimming pool and remove all debris. Be sure to remove any hydrostatic relief plugs.

Scrape all old, loose pool paint off of pool surface. A high pressure power washer will help.

If there are any cracks in the swimming pool shell, they must be cut out with a diamond blade saw or grinder. Cut the cracks 1/4” deep.

Chip out any divots or loose cement. Caulk the cracks, and patch any large chips or divots with hydraulic cement.

Acid Wash the swimming pool with a 50% water, 50% muriatic acid solution. Be sure to scrub the walls and floor and to use the proper safety equipment and procedures.

Rinse the entire swimming pool, skimmers, fittings, lights, and stairs completely.

Now it is time to re-clean the swimming pool with TSP (trisodium-phosphate). TSP is a detergent available at all paint stores and most hardware stores. Follow the directions on the TSP container. This step will neutralize the acid, and remove the glaze from the existing paint. It will remove any grease, oil or any dirt that the acid did not remove. Rinse with fresh water completely. When you think you have rinsed the entire swimming pool, rinse it again good!!

Pump out all of the water and remove any left over debris. Remove any water from skimmer, and sponge any standing water from low spots around steps and fittings. Allow the swimming pool to dry for 3 - 5 days. (Acrylic paint can be applied on damp or recently wet surfaces) Tape off the tile band and fittings with masking tape to prevent getting any paint on the threads, tile or fittings.

Time to paint your swimming pool! Just before painting the pool, scrape any last minute flakes from the pool surface, Sweep the pool out and sweep or blow any leaves or dirt from the pool deck Check the weather for rain or high winds in the forecast. If there is a chance of rain, wait. Open the swimming pool paint and mix it well. You will want to use an electric drill with a paddle mixer. Mix for about 5 - 7 minutes.

Apply paint with a 3/8” nap roller. Start in the deep end of the swimming pool, work your way to the shallow end. Use an extension pole on your roller for the deep end walls. Mid morning is the best time to paint, after the dew has lifted. Do not apply paint if the temperature is below 40 degrees Fahrenheit or above 90 degrees. Extremely humid weather can be bad. If you do, the paint will not adhere. If you are applying a second coat of paint, wait 2 - 4 hours before re-painting.

The last step is very important. You must wait 5 days before filling the swimming pool so your new paint job can cure completely. (3 days with Acrylic paint) If there is rain during that time, remove any standing water after the rain has stopped. Use a sponge and leaf blower to dry the pool. If the rain lasts more than an hour or two, add a day to the cure time. After the cure time, fill the pool without stopping until the pool is full.

When the pool is full, restart the swimming pool filter system and adjust the total alkalinity and calcium hardness levels to a minimum of 150 PPM. Resume your normal chemical maintenance.

Don't forget to consult your particular paint mfg instructions for application instructions.
APSP Tech II (NSPI)former member of IPSSA.

Posted:  #23290
Anonymous User
Hi Steve,

If you have a high water table where you live, you need to be very cautious about draining the pool to paint it. If the pressure beneath the ground is greater than the water pressure inside the pool (or the lack thereof once drained) the shell can "pop" out of the ground - which would be a devastating loss. When draining you need to follow the water level down the shell ''till it hits the relief plugs in the floor (asuming your builder put them in) and then open them up. There may be one in the transition and maybe more close to the bottom drain. No matter what type of finish you have, the applicator will need to do this.

Also, you may want to consider the miraid of different interior finishes on the market today that have essentially taken the place of painted interiors. If you follow the recipe I saw in the response below, there are innumerable soft costs that go beyond the price of the paint you carry out of a retail pool store and roll on the shell...maybe much more costly in the long run. Many of the aggregate finishes are far more durable today than any finish that comes in a bucket, so it is worth consideration. The company I work for (Anthony & Sylvan Pools) does not renovate pools in the Dallas market, but I have seen many similar inquiries over the past twenty years that prompted me to respond to your situation.

Best of luck in your search!

Posted:  11/26/2008 2:42 PM #23291
Total Posts:163
Last Post:3/22/2011
Member Since:10/20/2006
I use Ramuc Type EP

It's an epoxy based paint, About 100 bucks a gallon. But with any paints, you have to do the prep work.

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Posted:  12/6/2008 8:31 AM #23292
Total Posts:1
Last Post:12/6/2008
Member Since:12/6/2008
I too am looking to repaint my pool. The advice provided is very helpful. There are no visible relief plugs in my pool. I live in Florida, so the water table might be an issue. Am I missing something in regards to the relief plugs, or can one be located in the main drain? Is there any other precaution you might advise to minimize the risk of pool pop?

Posted:  12/8/2008 6:27 AM #23293
Total Posts:1
Last Post:12/8/2008
Member Since:12/8/2008
The best season for painting a pool is summer.

Swimming pools

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