Ideal BB.NET Main Board: How to replace ball valves

I need to replace a ball valve with a broken handle. I've got three incoming 2.5" pvc pipes for three intakes (two skimmers and bottom of pool). The broken valve is for the intake from the bottom of the pool. So, how do I replace that valve without having to empty the entire pool first? The last time I did it, I used rain or shine pvc cement and jammed it on, and covered the bottom intake with a heavy rubber mat to slow down the flow a little. There's got to be a better way. Any thoughts? Besides replacing with a high quality Jandy valve so I never have to replace the thing again? :)

Thanks in advance.

Todd

Posted: 11/2/2009 10:51 AM

#24923

	aquabos I

	Member

Total Posts:37
Last Post:11/17/2009
Member Since:4/15/2009

That is a tough one especially if the system sits lower than the pool. The ideal situation would be to dive down and plug off the bottom drain line, now having said that, unless you have scuba gear or have good lungs that will allow you enough time to stay down there to remove the drain cover and install a winter plug..your only other choice is to do what you have done in the past. You want to use the Pooltite pvc cement which is blue in color and is made for wet applications.

Posted: 11/2/2009 11:07 AM

#24924

	JohnT

	Member

Total Posts:1534
Last Post:11/2/2009
Member Since:7/11/2005

A couple of options:

I've used an inverted feed pan like this attached to my pool pole to cover the drain

http://www.cheshirehorse.com/cw3/assets/p roduct_full/miller4qtrubberfeedpan.jpg

It's flexible enough to get a pretty good seal, but it won't be bone dry. Just make sure you get the air out of it.

If your new valve is big enough, you can pass a Drain King on a hose through the open valve, then stick it in the pipe and turn the water on to seal the pipe. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/images/B 0002YUWQG/ref=dp_image_0?ie=UTF8&n=22 8013&s=hi\

You will be adding water to the pool, but not very fast.

[Edited on 11/2/2009]

Posted: 11/2/2009 12:54 PM

#24925

	T Rahmes

	Member

Total Posts:2
Last Post:11/2/2009
Member Since:11/1/2009

Thanks to both of you for the ideas. I'm looking forward to trying one (or more) of these out. Really, really appreciate it!!!!

Posted: 11/3/2009 12:59 AM

#24926

	JL8031729

	Member

Total Posts:22
Last Post:11/3/2009
Member Since:6/25/2009

Plug the pipe with a regular rubber winterizing plug. Not too tight, just enough to keep it in place. Then glue on a slip union. Put the other half of the slip union on the valve. Once the glue is dry, you can remove the rubber plug from the pipe and connect the valve to the pipe using the union. You can then close the valve to stop the water and finish plumbing.

You might want to use some silicone adhesive to glue the rubber O-ring into the slot on the union to keep it from falling out as you connect the valve to the pipe with the water flowing. Make sure not to get any silicone adhesive on the face side of the O-ring. Just put a tiny amount into the slot and then press the O-ring into the slot. Don't use enough adhesive that any squirts out as you press it into place. Use silicone lubricant on the face side of the O-ring.

Another thing I have seen someone do was to use a dissolvable product, like bread, to plug the line and then quickly plumb the valve in place. The bread should give you about 60 seconds before it dissolves. Once the plumbing is complete, the mushy bread will just be pushed through the line by water pressure.

One other idea: Blow all of the water out of the line and then work really, really fast before the water comes back.

Posted: 11/3/2009 11:51 AM

#24927

	aquabos I

	Member

Total Posts:37
Last Post:11/17/2009
Member Since:4/15/2009

Yup...I heard about the bread routine...never tried it myself..alot of old time plumbers used that trick..never found out what type of bread to use...:)

Posted: 11/6/2009 4:45 PM

#24934

	Tom the Pool Guy

	Member

Total Posts:478
Last Post:11/10/2009
Member Since:4/30/2006

We use a large rubber floor matt to cover main drain and have been able to do main drain line repair lines with having to plug the main drain. We blow out the line like we do when we air lock the main drain for winterization and then lie down the round rubber matt over the drain one we reopen the valve it seals the line and has allready pushed all the water out of the line for easy and dry plumbing repairs. It seems to have worked well for us in several situations when we need to replace a main drain valve.

Till the whole world hears,
Tom the Pool Guy

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