Pool talk


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Posted:  5/12/2018 1:08 PM #26646
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Total Posts:1
Last Post:5/12/2018
Member Since:5/12/2018
Subject: Gunite Pool - damage around skimmer box
I have a 1950’s gunite pool. Toward the end of last summer, I noticed the pool was losing water when I topped it off. I also noticed sand at the bottom of the pool after I filled it. When I opened it this spring, I removed a piece a loose coping to mortar in back in place. The loose piece was adjacent to the piece of coping over the skimmer box so I decided to remove it to see if I could see any problems with the skimmer. I tried to attached some photos so I hope they are available.
The concrete/gunite next to the skimmer box has deteriorated to the point where it has let water get behind th pool wall and wash the fill sand into the pool.
I wanted to make sure the skimmer receptacle was intact so I turned off the pump and filter and filled up the pool. The skimmer receptacle held its water level but the now higher level of pool water rushed in next to the skimmer and into the cavity behind the pool wall where the fill sand is. So I believe the skimmer receptacle is intact.
I plan to patch the gunite/concrete, then coat with plaster, and finally replace the missing tiles. (Obviously I will have to drain the pool below the level of the tiles).

I have a couple questions about the repair work outside the skimmer box: 1) after removing the loose gunite material, is it necessary to chip out any more before beginning repairs? I assume as long as the remaining material is solid, it would be alright to leave it and make repairs on top of it. And 2) What type of material should I use to patch the gunite? The patch work will be anywhere from 1/2 to 3+ inches think and I want to make sure I use the right product for this application so that the patch has the necessary strength and adheres properly to the existing pool structure.

Thank you in advance for your help. JP
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Posted:  5/13/2018 7:10 AM #26647
Total Posts:144
Last Post:5/13/2018
Member Since:8/20/2004
Hi JP, you can get a small pail of hydraulic cement at a hardware store, and pack it in there, using a wood form if needed. No need to remove solid material, unless it sounds hollow, or has big cracks running thru it. If the patch is large and thick enough,3" or deeper, and if possible, you could drill holes and stick in small lengths of rebar, to tie the two together, but probably not applicable in your case. After the concrete cures (see label), set the tile in a plaster mix, and coat over the concrete, to waterproof. In thin areas (1/2"), you could just use a thick bed of plaster mix, without need for the concrete.

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